Modifying Gauge 

I recently finished the sleeveless version of Ravenna by Michele Frazzetta using Silky Linen. From the beginning, I knew I wanted a fabric that felt lighter, more drap-ey, and more breathable than the original pattern fabric. To achieve that, I intentionally knit at a different gauge than the pattern called for.

This project was a good reminder that gauge for any pattern is not a strict rule. It’s a starting point, and I've found that my gauge almost never matches pattern row and stitch gauge exactly no matter what. So, why not figure out how to customize garments so you don't have to stress over endless swatching when you have achieved a knitted fabric you love. 

My Gauge vs. the Pattern Gauge

Here’s a look at the difference between my gauge and the original pattern gauge.

My Gauge

• 33 stitches and 40 rows over 5.25" x 4"

• U.S. 3 needle

Pattern Gauge

• 36 stitches and 48 rows over 5.25" x 4.25"

• U.S. 2.5 needle

At first glance, those numbers don’t seem wildly different, but over an entire garment they create a noticeably different finished size and fabric.

Because I was getting fewer stitches per inch, my knitting was larger than the pattern gauge. That meant I needed to knit a smaller pattern size in order to end up with the finished measurements I wanted.

My swatch told me that knitting the 36" bust size would give me a finished garment around 38", which was perfect for the amount of ease I wanted.

The row gauge difference mattered too. My rows were taller than the pattern rows, so I knew my neckline and armholes would end up deeper than intended. Because there is a texture chart in this pattern, it added another challenge. I couldn’t simply stop at my desired measurements without disrupting the pattern repeat.

Why Row Gauge Matters 

My Row Gauge

• 40 rows over 4"

• 10 rows per inch

Pattern Row Gauge

• 48 rows over 4.25"

• approximately 11.3 rows per inch

That difference adds up.

For example, if the pattern instructs you to knit 120 rows for the body:

Pattern Length

120 rows ÷ 11.3 rows per inch = approximately 10.6"

My Length

120 rows ÷ 10 rows per inch = 12"

Without changing a single instruction, my project becomes approximately 1.5" longer than the pattern intended.

That’s exactly what happened in my project. My finished measurements ended up about 1.5-2" longer than the pattern schematic.

Checking Gauge Mid-Project

One thing I’ve learned over the years is that swatch gauge is a starting point. Knitted fabric changes as it hangs under its own weight, especially with fibers like linen and silk. My tension also changes throughout a project, so I always stop and check gauge at a few points while knitting a sweater.

Before joining the body, I stopped and steamed the project to re-check my gauge and measurements. This told me that my stitch gauge had shifted slightly, so I omitted the extra cast-on stitches at the underarm.

I knew this would eliminate one chart repeat, but it worked out because the stitches I already had in place looked just like a small seam detail.

It’s much easier to make adjustments early than after the entire garment is finished. I've learned to stop and block along the way for all of my tops, including sleeves and body before I add ribbing. 

Modifying the Neckline and Armhole Trim

I also changed the finishing details of the pattern.

Instead of the original ribbed edging, I added a delicate scalloped crochet edge that softened the overall look and slightly tightened the openings, which helped compensate for the extra depth created by my row gauge.

To help the neckline sit neatly, I worked a crochet foundation row before adding the shell edging.

Here’s a great tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_06gqkDpR0

I used a 2.0 mm crochet hook, which was approximately two sizes smaller than my knitting needle.

Neckline

• Pick up approximately 2 out of every 3 stitches

Armholes

• Pick up approximately 3 out of every 4 stitches

This helped reduce the stitch count enough that the edges would tighten up for a better fit without puckering. I experimented a bit with the pickup ratio until I found the right combination.

Crochet Shell Stitch Edge

For both the neckline and armholes, I finished with this simple shell stitch pattern. There are many ways to create a scalloped edge, but here’s what I did.

After finishing the single crochet foundation row:

• Single crochet into the first stitch

• Skip 1–2 stitches depending on how long your foundation row stitches are. If your stitches are close together, skip more stitches. If they are farther apart, skip fewer.

• Work 4 double crochets into the next stitch

• Skip 1–2 stitches

• Single crochet into the next stitch

• Repeat around

Finish with a slip stitch into the first single crochet.

You may need to adjust the spacing slightly to make everything work evenly around the edge. My first armhole took about three tries before I liked the result. I really wanted my first scallop to land just above the side seam detail. Definitely take notes while working the first armhole so the second one matches.

Final Thoughts

Changing gauge and modifying pattern details can feel intimidating at first, but sometimes it’s the best way to create the fabric and fit you truly want, and isn't that the point of making our own garments?

With a little swatching, some simple math, and careful measuring along the way, you can absolutely customize patterns to suit your yarn, your body, and your personal style. It takes a little more effort, but in the end you get exactly the garment you were hoping for.

Get The Pattern: Ravenna Sleeveless by Michele Frazzetta
Ravelry
Her Website
Get The Yarn: Silky Linen in the colorway Periwinkle (Meadow Sport would also work beautifully for this project. 
Find Michele at www.meeshyfrazknits.com and on YouTube at Meeshyfrazzknits

P.S. The Sleeved version of this pattern is coming in late July! Michele will offer a button up version and a pullover version with multiple sleeve lengths.